There are many fairy tales, legends, and stories where something small or modest, by delving deeper step by step, turns out to be very mighty and strong. Especially over the last two years, when travel opportunities were limited, many people turned both to travelling around and getting to know Latvia, and to the good things created (brewed) right here at home. Hopefully, the spring winds will blow away the unnecessary for good, and the good will remain. For all of us.
The 21st century and patriotism. What is the patriotism of these times?
My answer will be simple – a place of the heart – a place where my heart beats faster. I was born, raised, and educated in Valmiera. My father, grandfather, and great-grandfather are from the Valmiera area. During my student years, I travelled a lot and I remember very well the feeling of returning from a student conference in perfect Switzerland – as the plane lands at Riga Airport, as I continue the journey by bus from the airport to the centre, feeling the potholes in the road and realizing – I am still happy to be back home. Approaching Valmiera, my heart always started beating faster. In your place of the heart, everything around you helps and strengthens you. Latvia is my cultural layer where I want to set my roots deeper, and my place of strength to withstand the strongest storms, my place of inspiration to create. So to speak – from roots to the heavens.
Patriotism is the place where I feel best – for me, that is the Valmiera region and Latvia. Looking a bit broader, it is a free, democratic, and diverse Europe, which is the culture and society in which I wish to grow and to which I want to belong. For me, the national-patriotic feeling is particularly important because Valmiera and Latvia, if we calculate purely rationally, are not the most profitable place in the world to build my small brewery. The beer market in Latvia is small and continues to shrink along with the population. Brewing beer in Latvia is more expensive compared to Lithuania and Estonia, due to short-sighted tax policies. Because of the overzealousness of Latvian politicians, the beer market in Latvia is much more regulated than in Germany, the Czech Republic, or Belgium, where beer is also a national drink. However, my patriotism is stronger than the headwinds; for me, Valmiera and Latvia are the best place in the world to build my small brewery for the long term and to develop Valmiermuiža into a cultural destination. Here my heart beats fastest and here my greatest strength is revealed to me.
Valmiermuiža and history. How did it become clear – here and nowhere else? Could you have chosen differently?
There was a desire to build the brewery in the Valmiera area. The company's original name was “Valmieras alus”. I have always been interested in history: rummaging through old trunks, looking through old photographs, listening to life stories. We inquired where breweries had historically been in the Valmiera region – we found out about two. One – large and famous, which exported beer throughout the territory of Tsarist Russia until the First World War – Kokmuiža beer in Kocēni. The other – smaller, but famous for its quality – a brewpub or tavern that brewed its own beer in Valmiermuiža. It was both a coincidence and a logical development – we ended up in Valmiermuiža because the head of Burtnieki Municipality at the time, Jānis Leitis, convinced us that everything necessary regarding property rights in Valmiermuiža to set up a brewery could be done and organized. It is important to an investor how a local government leader reacts in such moments, and whether there is a responsive attitude towards the entrepreneur. It was decided – Valmiermuiža would be the right place for the brewery.
I began to study the history of the estate more deeply, learning that in the national awakening, Valmiermuiža was mentioned as a significant place of Latvian “awakening”, where at the beginning of the 18th century, the first organization that could legally use the word “Latvian” operated, namely, the Latvian Brethren congregation. Thanks to the Moravian or Brethren movement, a teachers' seminary was founded so that Latvian peasants and craftsmen, men and women, would have the opportunity to learn to read and write in the Latvian language. Their letters written in Latvian can be considered the beginning of Latvian literature; they are kept in the National Library of Latvia and included in the UNESCO “Memory of the World” programme. By the way, since 26 April, the exhibition “Awakening” has been open at the National Library of Latvia – about how the Brethren movement awakened the struggle for Latvian rights, raised self-confidence, and promoted the development of education and choral singing.
In my view, beer brewing is a highly patriotic activity. We call beer the Latvian national drink. However, 15 years ago, when I was thinking about creating a brewery, these were just loud words not followed by actions. For beer to be a national drink, enjoying it just at Midsummer is not enough. It should also be enjoyed during other national holidays, where I did not see beer on the table. Even a couple of years ago, at a reception held by the President of Latvia in honour of the Proclamation Day of the Republic of Latvia, after the singing of the national anthem, patriotic speeches, songs, and the praising of local entrepreneurs, the festive table was set with Spanish wine and Norwegian salmon, not beer brewed in Latvia.
That has always seemed wrong to me. Can we imagine that in France, on Bastille Day, 14 July, President Emmanuel Macron would entertain guests at a reception with German beer or Russian vodka? In Latvia, beer deserves to return to the place of honour on the festive table. In the Dainu Skapis (Cabinet of Folk Songs), there are several hundred folk songs that mention beer. Beer was put on the table at a Latvian’s greatest life celebrations: at christenings, weddings, funerals, and during the eight seasonal festivals. Historian Linda Dumpe has written an inspiring book about beer traditions in Latvia, how beer culture here has developed from ancient times to the present day, confirming that for Latvians, beer has been a festive drink. During the Soviet era, the value of beer was degraded to a culture of drinking and vodka. Upon regaining independence, large beer producers thought about quantity, not quality. In 2008, the most popular beer in Latvia was sold in two-litre plastic bottles at 7% strength, which you would not put on a festive table next to fine wine.
If we have independence, an anthem, a language, the Dainu Skapis, our own festivals, there must also be a national drink that we can be proud of on the festive table. That is how we began our Valmiermuiža beer journey, so that beer, the national drink, brewed in a small brewery right here in Latvia, would again become a celebratory drink on the festive table as it was for our ancestors.
So, the beer must both taste and look as if it belongs on a festive table. This is my job, my passion, so that beer in Latvia (similar to wine and champagne in France or whisky in Scotland) can be our drink to be proud of, to treat guests with. During a trip to Scotland, I concluded – everything around and involving whisky is tied to the culture of brewing and enjoying the drink. Quality single malt Scotch whisky is enjoyed, not just drunk; it is known and respected all over the world. Whisky is an inseparable part of Scottish culture, it is part of the Scottish DNA. Similarly in France – I cannot imagine a French politician publicly standing against French wine, so that it would be brewed less in France and enjoyed less often with meals; perhaps the next day there would be a new revolution in France.
The Vidzeme golden triangle: Cēsis, Valmiera, Smiltene. Strong people with influence in Riga, which should be felt, taken into account, and understood.
There are several state policies that I do not understand. Firstly, over the last ten years, Latvia has become a decisive beer importer, as more than half of the beer sold in Latvia is imported. In the supermarket, there are many beer bottles with poetic Latvian names that are not brewed in Latvia, on which, in very, very small letters on the back label, it says not the manufacturer, but the distributor. “Aldaris” no longer produces beer in Latvia. Likewise, “Lāčplēša alus” and “Līvu alus” factories have been closed, and this beer is produced in Lithuania or Estonia. What does this mean? Beer is a drink with high added value, as its composition is nearly 90% water. Yet we have become importers of our national drink. Large breweries, for example, the Danish “Carlsberg”, which owns “Aldaris”, and the Danish “Royal Unibrew”, which owns the “Lāčplēsis”, “Līvu”, and “Lielvārde” beer brands, choose to brew where it is more profitable. Compared to Latvia, it is more profitable to brew in Lithuania and Estonia. Lost investments, taxes, jobs... I consider this a failure of high-level policy and shortsightedness.
Secondly, a lot is said about how Latvia has one of the highest alcohol consumption rates in Europe. But little is explained about the fact that beer consumption in Latvia has been decreasing over the last six years and is much lower than in the Czech Republic or Germany. Therefore, Latvia has a much higher consumption of strong alcohol compared to Western Europe.
I am not a politician; I do not understand why it is beneficial for Latvia to be a beer importer rather than an exporter and to promote not beer, but the consumption of strong alcohol. I do what I understand; I brew beer.
...in our country, people use the strongest alcohol, eau de Cologne included.
Why, the moment this topic is discussed, is all types of alcohol put together – in one bag? Any speech, any political activities and actions aimed at reducing total alcohol consumption also affect the beer industry and small breweries. If, for example, in Latvia, as in Germany, beer is the national drink, policy should be aimed at even greater support for the national drink – beer. Good examples are the Czech Republic, Belgium, and Germany, where beer consumption is significantly higher than in Latvia, while strong alcohol consumption is much lower; all three countries are major beer exporters, their beer is respected all over the world. I conclude that support for the beer industry in Latvian state policy is insufficient. I am too small an entrepreneur to be listened to. If large beer producers have moved their production facilities to neighbouring countries, then they too have not been heard. I suppose someone in the government or the Saeima has an explanation as to why it is better to import beer but produce strong alcohol in Latvia. Despite strong crosswinds and headwinds, I am determined to brew beer only in Valmiermuiža and to promote the export of beer from Latvia's small breweries.
A small example. In the Valmiermuiža Beer Embassy in Riga, there is a small beer shop and a bar in one room. In order for the bar to be able to operate after 22:00, there is a legal requirement to install another separate cash register, which costs several thousand euros and which I can only use after 22:00. What on earth for? The overzealousness of local bureaucrats. In Estonia, such requirements do not exist.
I remain an optimist. It is pleasing that 13 years ago, Valmiermuiža managed to start and develop a craft beer culture in Latvia, placing emphasis on distinct beer flavours and the enjoyment of beer. Over these years, the total number of breweries in Latvia has grown from 15 to 65 (this year). Calculating the number of breweries per capita, it has approached the American level, which is considered the world leader in craft beer brewing. The desire to enjoy diverse beer flavours has gone up. At the Valmiermuiža Embassy in Riga alone, we offer 250 different craft beer flavours from 30 small Latvian breweries. For beer enthusiasts here, in my opinion, this is a golden age, because the diversity of flavours is huge; enthusiasts can feel pampered and happy.
Similar to Belgium and the Czech Republic, we can also tell the world about our beer-brewing traditions; Latvia is also found on the world craft beer map. In Valmiermuiža, we organize excursions where we talk about Latvian beer culture. In Riga, we have created beer quarter tours where it is possible to visit craft beer bars located in the Riga beer triangle between the historical Stricks brewery, and the “Kuncendorfa” (in Soviet times “Veldze”) and “Kimmel” breweries. Neighbouring the Valmiermuiža Embassy in Riga is “Labietis” (a bar), and on Miera Street, there is the craft beer bar “Taka”, which offers a diverse range of craft beers. During such a walk, foreign guests can experience the diversity of our craft beer; before C19, there were many such walks, currently everything is slowly restarting. It is pleasant that Valmiermuiža beer is also appreciated outside of Latvia; we are doing well in Estonia, exporting 7% of what we brew. Our second largest export is to Ireland, which we smile and call the fifth province of Latvia, where Latvian beer is one of the links to the homeland. We have also started exporting beer to Great Britain. Small breweries continue to work despite obstacles, because for many it is a passion. It is not easy to climb Everest either. We are climbing step by step.
I am happy that I can brew beer in Latvia, in Valmiermuiža, even though over the last ten years, the Lithuanians and Estonians have been the biggest winners from the policy in Latvia that is unfriendly to beer brewing.
Sustainability and foresight. War
I believe that Latvia’s 18 years in NATO mean something for Latvia’s security. I would like to believe what the first persons of the state say publicly, that we can feel safe in Latvia and that a direct military attack is unlikely. I will not brew beer for a foreign power. Thinking about war in Europe is heavy and difficult. What to do? Every day I talk to my family – our place, work, front – the Valmiermuiža brewery. By strengthening the Valmiermuiža brewery, we can strengthen Latvia and its independence. We cherish Latvian flavours. We have had two inspiring, patriotic cooperation projects – one – a special beer flavour dedicated to the centenary of the Latvian Army, titled “Brīvība” (Freedom), with the message that freedom had to be fought for, today it must be protected and celebrated together. The second – a flavour specially brewed for the 30th anniversary of the National Guard, “Savas zemes sargs” (Guardian of your own land), to honour the brave men and women who have joined the National Guard. We brew “Gardu muti” lemonades, for which we take quince and rhubarb only from Latvian gardens, supporting local, small farmers. The more Latvian flavours and added value remain in Latvia, the stronger Latvia will be. In the countryside, it is possible to live well not only for a large farmer with 5,000 ha of managed land, but also for a small farmer with a 5 ha quince or rhubarb garden. One thing is to strengthen the Latvian language and the armed forces, but Latvian entrepreneurs and Latvian flavours must also be strengthened, which, in turn, makes Latvian identity and a sense of belonging strong. We brew only in Latvia, giving work to 100 people, so that Latvia, through our work, becomes more Latvian, more prosperous, stronger, greener.
The annual turnover of Valmiermuižas alus is close to €6 million, and last year we paid €1.4 million in taxes annually. Our brewery was hit very hard by C19 restrictions because a large volume of sales was made up of restaurants and bars, which had major restrictions. Last year was even more difficult for restaurants and bars than the first year of C19. Therefore, it was necessary to use the opportunity to defer part of the tax payments, which we plan to repay this year.
In Valmiermuiža, besides brewing beer, we are also engaged in place-making, developing the Valmiermuiža historical architectural ensemble into a cultural venue, cooperating with the municipality and for ten years generously supporting the Valmiermuiža Cultural Association, which organizes diverse cultural events in the Valmiermuiža park. The Valmiermuiža park, from a neglected place 13 years ago where no one would go of their own free will, has turned into a cultural venue for nationally recognized events. This year, the Valmiermuiža Cultural Association has committed to bringing to life an annual international Valmiermuiža ethnomusic festival (similar to the popular Viljandi Folk Music Festival), to popularize ethnomusic in a modern way, meeting 13 different groups from different countries. The central event this year will be the premiere of the “Auļi” Midsummer programme and a fire sculpture, which will be created by a Spanish artist.
Last November, the Valmiermuiža Cultural Association created a light walk in the Valmiermuiža park called “Gaismas lauks” (Field of Light), the idea of which was rooted in the contribution of the aforementioned Brethren congregations to Latvian culture. In the illuminated field of light, shoots were lit up, symbolizing the Latvian efforts for education and independence, and one could listen to the first texts written in the Latvian language, recorded by Valmiera actors. These shoots blossomed in a powerful national awakening. Thus, affirming the importance of Latvian education today. We plan to continue this tradition; this November, artist Krišs Salmanis has agreed to create a light installation.
In the year of Latvia’s centenary, in cooperation with the National Heritage Board, we proposed to include the Valmiermuiža stone fence and granary in the list of state-protected architectural monuments in order to protect, maintain, and restore them. Currently, in cooperation with the Valmiera region, we are looking for opportunities on how to develop the remaining historical buildings of Valmiermuiža, including the restoration of the Valmiermuiža castle tower. By the end of the year, we plan to publish a book about the history and contribution of the historical Valmiermuiža estate. We are honoured and proud that Valmiera is a candidate for the European Capital of Culture status in 2027. There are many historical estates around the city that could be transformed into a network of manor cultural venues, offering the enjoyment of high-value, chamber-format diverse culture in the region. What is important is the path and the direction so that we can step by step develop Valmiermuiža as a tidy cultural place to which to invite guests from Latvia and all over the world. My front is my farm for Latvia.
Sustainability is both managing nature-friendly and preserving cultural heritage for future generations. Sustainability is brewing Valmiermuiža beer right here in Latvia, reducing the transport kilometres travelled. Sustainable is the use of local Latvian fruits and berries for lemonade production. Sustainable is cooperation with small entrepreneurs in Latvia, helping others to grow and develop. As long as there is Latvia, there will be beer lovers.
We are happy that a deposit system for glass bottles has been introduced this year, so that 90% of glass bottles would be collected and reused. We give beer grains to local farmers, who feed them to their cows, so that they give more milk. In our beer kitchen next to the brewery, we make maximum use of local, fresh farm produce.
The plans are big.
Sustainability also means not resting on your laurels. We have started a major investment project worth €700,000, which we plan to complete by Midsummer, so that we can brew diverse dark beers with more intense flavours for export. At the beginning of May (planned for 7 May), we will open the Valmiermuiža Embassy in the restored Āgenskalns Market in Riga, where we will offer more than 100 Latvian-brewed craft beer flavours from 10 different Latvian craft breweries. At the end of May (28 May), we will ceremoniously open the Valmiermuiža Embassy in Tallinn. But on 17-18 June, we look forward to welcoming guests to the Valmiermuiža ethnomusic festival, which is our biggest event of the year. Those who improve will endure!
Photographs by Aigars Ruņģis and zemeunvalsts.lv have been used